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When creating a ring, you'll encounter a world of design language and engagement ring terminology â terms like shank, gallery rail, pavĂ©, basket, and more. To help you feel confident and inspired throughout your design journey, we've curated a clear, beautifully simple guide to what each of these elements means. After reading, you'll have a deeper understanding of the craftsmanship and artistry that bring an engagement ring to life, empowering you to create your dream ring and discover the perfect piece.
A ring mount, also known as the setting, is the architectural heart of a ring â the entire metal framework that holds and presents the gemstone. The mount plays a crucial role in shaping the ring's appearance, influencing how the gemstone is showcased and the overall aesthetic appeal. It's the bridge between craftsmanship and artistry, determining not only how securely the stone sits but also how the ring catches light, feels on the finger, and expresses style.
Mounts can also be customised with various add-ons, such as decorative features or additional stones, to enhance the ring's appearance further.
Also known as claws, prongs are a type of prong settingâa classic gemstone mounting technique that uses small metal spikes or bars to securely hold the jewel in place while allowing maximum visibility from all angles. Each prong is a slender piece of metal, gently curved over the gemstone, to keep it securely in place, allowing maximum light to enter and enhance its brilliance. Prong settings come in many beautiful variations â from classic four- and six-prong solitaires, to double-claw vintage designs, petal-style prongs that resemble flower tips, and shared-prong settings often seen in elegant diamond bands. This style offers endless design possibilities while showcasing the gemstone as the true centerpiece of the ring.
The tips are the very ends of the prongs â the small but vital details that hold each gemstone securely in place. Prong tips can be styled in many ways, adding both character and protection to the design. Rounded or ball tips create a soft, classic look, while claw or pointed tips give a refined, elegant finish often seen in modern solitaires. V-shaped tips are used for the corners of gemstones like the princess cut or marquise cut, shielding these shapes from damage. A well-crafted prong setting can also help showcase an eye clean diamond by minimising visible distractions. Over time, these delicate tips naturally wear down through everyday wear, so routine inspection and maintenance are essential to keep the stones safe and secure. Regular servicing ensures the prongs remain strong and the gemstones stay perfectly set for years to come.
Accent stones â also known as side stones â are the smaller gemstones that complement and frame the centre stone. These accent stones come in a variety of shapes, each contributing a unique character to the overall design. Their purpose is to enhance the overall brilliance of the design, drawing the eye toward the focal gem while adding depth, sparkle, and individuality. Side stones can take many forms, from tapered baguettes and trillion cuts to pavĂ©-set diamonds or coloured gemstones for a more distinctive look. Whether subtle or striking, these carefully chosen accents bring balance and artistry to the ring, transforming the centre stone into a complete and harmonious composition. The choice of accent stone shapes can significantly enhance the ring's visual impact, making it more captivating and expressive.
Most claw-set rings feature a gallery rail â a delicate band of metal positioned between the ring's shoulders, just beneath the centre gemstone. Though often subtle, this structural element plays an essential role: it reinforces the prongs and adds strength to the entire setting, keeping the centre stone secure for decades of wear. Beyond its practical purpose, the gallery rail also offers creative design opportunities. It can be shaped with graceful curves, adorned with filigree detailing, or even set with hidden accent stones for a touch of secret sparkle visible only from the side. A well-crafted gallery rail not only ensures durability but also contributes to the ring's balance, symmetry, and elegance when viewed from every angle.
Some gallery rails can also be personalised with a small engraving, adding a unique and meaningful touch to your ring.
The halo design is one of the most timeless and radiant styles in engagement rings, celebrated for its ability to enhance brilliance and presence. Originating in the Georgian and Victorian eras, the halo gained prominence during the Art Deco period of the 1920s, when geometric symmetry and glamour defined jewellery design. A traditional halo encircles the centre stone with a ring of smaller diamonds, amplifying sparkle and making the focal gem appear larger. Today, many variations exist â from double halos that add layered brilliance, to hidden halos that sparkle subtly beneath the central stone, and vintage-inspired halos featuring milgrain or coloured accent gems. The halo design remains a perfect balance of elegance and drama, capturing both historical charm and modern sophistication.
As the name suggests, the shoulders are the sides of the ring's mount â the elegant curves that rise from the band to support the head and centre stone. Different varieties of shanks can influence the overall design and comfort of the ring, as the shoulders connect directly to the shank, making both elements essential to the ring's structure and style. Their design plays a key role in both structure and style, seamlessly connecting the band to the setting. Shoulders can be crafted in many ways: tapered for a graceful transition, split for an open, modern feel, or adorned with pavĂ© or channel-set stones for extra brilliance. Beyond their visual beauty, well-proportioned shoulders provide balance and stability, ensuring the ring sits comfortably and harmoniously on the hand.
Pronounced (pa-VAY) is a French word, which literally means "paved" â like a paved street. This technique, developed by French goldsmiths and skilled jewellers, involves setting small diamonds closely together with very little metal between, creating a dazzling effect that is highly valued in fine jewellery. PavĂ© is a typical style found on many rings today and is a hallmark of craftsmanship in the jewellery world.
The bridge is part of the ring that sits below the setting and holds the setting and ring together. When planning to stack wedding bands against an engagement ring, the bridge design of the ring is essential to accommodate different styles of wedding bands. The bridge can also be styled with a pave for more sparkle.
The shank, or the band, is the part that wraps around your finger and is sized accordingly to your finger. At Aurora Saigon, we recommend a shank width of at least 1.8mm to ensure your ring is durable and strong.
A Euro Shank is a distinctive ring design characterised by a squared or slightly flattened base, as opposed to the traditional round engagement ring band. This subtle geometric shape adds both elegance and functionality, helping to keep the ring upright and preventing it from spinning on the finger, especially for larger or heavier designs. The squared edges also give the ring a contemporary, tailored appearance that balances beautifully with elaborate settings or statement centre stones. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the Euro Shank offers added comfort and stability, making it a practical choice for those who want their ring to fit securely while maintaining a refined, modern silhouette.
Adding a secret sparkle to the ring, hidden halos are placed under or around the basket setting. The hidden halo is our quiet nod to decades of design craft: nothing flashy at first glance, but elegance revealed in every angle. A ring that glows from withinâand outside.
A cathedral setting is a timeless and architectural ring design where the centre diamond is often showcased, with the centre stone gracefully elevated above the band by two arching metal slopes â resembling the sweeping arches of a grand cathedral. These arches elevate the gemstone high, allowing more light to enter and enhance its brilliance, while creating a dramatic and elegant profile. The result is a design that combines classic sophistication with a sense of strength and structure, framing the stone like a masterpiece on display.
A bezel setting encircles the gemstone with a smooth, custom-fit metal rim that securely holds it in place. The bezel setting covers both the diamond's pavilion and crown, offering protection to the upper and lower portions of the stone. Rather than prongs, the metal surrounds the stone's edges, offering exceptional protection while giving the ring a modern, refined appearance. This design enhances the gem's silhouette, creating a sleek, continuous line between the metal and stone. Loved for its durability and understated elegance, the bezel setting is perfect for those who appreciate clean lines, everyday wearability, and a touch of contemporary sophistication. The bezel setting can also influence light reflection, as the metal rim may affect how light enters and exits the stone, subtly impacting the diamond's overall brilliance.
Hallmarking is an ancient practice that traces back to 13th-century England, when goldsmiths were first required to stamp their work with a mark guaranteeing the purity of the metal. This mark â known as a hallmark â assured buyers that the piece met official standards for gold, silver, or platinum. Today, hallmarking remains both a legal requirement in many countries and a symbol of authenticity and craftsmanship.
Alongside hallmarks, engraving adds a deeply personal touch: initials, dates, or messages can be inscribed on the jewellery, transforming it from a beautiful object into a meaningful keepsake. Together, hallmarking and engraving reflect the artistry, integrity, and individuality that define every fine piece of jewellery. A small engraving may also denote a patented cutting style, highlighting the ring's uniqueness and exclusivity.
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